How To Use Starch in Gluten Free Baking

The Role of Starch in Gluten Free Baking

Gluten free recipes are trying to mimic the way wheat flour works in a recipe. Wheat flour is about 75% starch and 6-13% protein, depending on how it's processed. Therefore, we're (almost) always using a combination of flour and starch.

Wheat flour has three purposes;

• to thicken sauces, gravies, soups and stews,
• to coat meats and vegetables,
• to create structure in baked goods.

This is why different flours, starches and blends will work better in certain recipes.

An Exception To Every Rule

An important understanding for gluten free cooks is that there are always exceptions. Here's what I mean:

• Too much tapioca starch makes baked goods dense and gummy yet Brazilian Cheese Bread is a South American specialty made only with tapioca starch.
• It's common to see that a flour blend can include 30-60% white rice flour yet when it's more than 40% it leaves a lingering gritty mouthfeel to me. (It took me years to figure that out!)
• Many sources say white rice flour is not ideal in cookie recipes yet it's in my Sugar Cookies and they're so delicious I'm not looking for another sugar cookie recipe.

So don't change the recipes you already have and love. Keep an open mind as you learn and think of everything as a guide, not a rule.

How Do I Know What Starch Works Best

Every gluten free flour contains a different amount of starch (and protein) so it behaves differently. Add to that the long list of gluten free flours available and the number of combinations is endless.

As a general rule baked goods will have a better structure and taste when you combine two starches rather than using one alone.

So the answer is bake, eat and repeat! Keeping notes is a good idea too.

Common Gluten Free Starches

All the starches do not behave the same (because that would just be too easy). Here are some key points to know about starch in general.

• Starches need time to hydrate before going in the oven so letting batter or dough rest, up to 30 minutes, can improve the texture of some baked goods.
• The high starch content of some gluten free flours (and blends) can result in a gritty texture. Many batters and doughs benefit from more liquid to properly hydrate.
• More liquid may then require a longer baking time in some recipes.

Recipes that are written for gluten free flours should have been adjusted to allow for these differences. The biggest challenge is, you sometimes don't know what flour combination was used in the original recipe.

What About Arrowroot Starch

At the beginning of my gluten free baking adventures I added tapioca starch to my pantry and later potato starch. I already had cornstarch so as I learned, arrowroot starch is very similar to cornstarch, so I just never bought it.

If you have it and use it that's great. It is certainly used by gluten free cooks around the world. Just keep cooking and learning.

How To Use Cornstarch

Properties of Cornstarch

• Powdery white cornstarch is not the same as corn flour. Do not substitute.
• Not ideal for baking, too much cornstarch results in baked goods with a starchy texture.
• Stirring too vigorously may cause a mixture to break down and thin out.
• Cooking over high heat can cause lumping.
• Freeze and thaw stable.

Best Uses

• As a thickener for sauces, gravy, pie filling and pudding
• To dust on meat to help breading stick.
• Makes a light batter for fried foods.
• As an ingredient in breading to help with browning and crispiness.

Gluten Free Recipes Using Cornstarch

• Breaded foods like Breaded Pork Chops, Breading for Chicken and Pork and Shrimp Lemongrass Skewers
• White sauce and all the recipes you make with it: Mac and Cheese, Lobster Macaroni and Cheese, Greek Moussaka, Greek Pastitsio and Eggs Florentine.
• Battered foods like Battered Fish, Chinese Chicken Balls and fish tacos.
• Thickening sauces like Vanilla Cream and Lemon Curd, or a dish like Rhubarb Strawberry Crisp.
• Although I now wouldn't create a recipe with cornstarch it's in my once-a-year Angel Food Cake and these fluffy Buttermilk Biscuits, two recipes I'm not trying to change.

How To Use Potato Starch

Properties of Potato Starch

• Potato starch is not the same as potato flour. Do not substitute.
• Made from raw potatoes it has no potato taste.
• Gives a smooth texture and tenderness to baking.
• Provides structure and binding power in baking.
• Too much potato starch gives baked goods a crumbly texture.

Best Uses

• In muffins, quick breads and my EGFG gluten free flour blend. That acronym stands for Everyday Gluten Free Gourmet, and I use this blend in most of my everyday baking.

Gluten Free Recipes Using Potato Starch

Some of these recipe are made with my EGFG blend, so they include potato starch. A smaller amount of my recipes call for individual flours that sometimes includes potato starch. This is a small sampling of recipes with potato starch.

• EGFG gluten free flour blend
• Yorkshire pudding
• Australian Lamingtons, Angel Food Cake and Orange Cupcakes with Orange Icing
• Buttermilk Biscuits and Pancakes
• Pie pastry for my Cherry Hand Pies and tourtiere
• Sugar Cookies, Thumbprint Cookies, check my roundup of gluten free cookies for more.

How To Use Tapioca Starch

Properties of Tapioca Starch

• Tapioca starch is all starch yet some manufacturers and recipe creators call it tapioca flour. Tapioca flour and tapioca starch are the same ingredient.
• Gives chewy texture, elasticity and structure to baked goods.
• Aids in creating a crisp crust and in browning fried foods.
• Can be used as a thickener for pies and sauces.
• Too much tapioca starch makes baked goods dense.

Best Uses

• Great in cookies, common in flour blends (see 11 gluten free flour recipes) and moist breads like cornbread.
• It's stretchy properties make it a popular choice for pliable wraps.
• The main ingredient in classic Brazilian cheese bread.

Gluten Free Recipes Using Tapioca Starch

• Brazilian cheese bread and a variation, Pizza Cheese Buns
• Cornbread, Cornmeal Raspberry Muffins and Cornbread Chorizo Stuffing
• Crusty Bread and Buttermilk Biscuits
• Thumbprint Cookies, Sugar Cookies and more (check out this Roundup of Gluten Free Cookies)
• Australian Lamingtons, Angel Food Cake and Chocolate Cupcakes
• Layered Cappuccino Brownies

How To Use Gluten Free Flour: A 12-Part Series

This series is intended to provide a basic overview of ingredients for everyday home cooks, both new and experienced.

1. How To Use Rice Flour in Gluten Free Baking
2. How To Use Starch in Gluten Free Baking
3. Millet Flour and Sorghum Flour
4. Corn Flour, Cornmeal and Masa Harina
5. Almond Flour and Quinoa Flour
6. Binders in Gluten Free Baking
7. Chickpea Flour
8. Teff Flour
9. Buckwheat Flour
10. Coconut Flour
11. Oat Flour
12. How To Use A Gluten Free Flour Blend