How To Use Binders in Gluten Free Baking

How to Use Binders in gluten free baking is sixth in my 12-part series covering twenty-one ingredients gluten free cooks can use. (Crazy hey!) Binders, sometimes called gums, play an important role in gluten free baking. Think of them as the glue that holds everything together, it makes up for the missing gluten.

The goal with this series is to share just enough information to help you learn the properties and best uses for many flours. This in turn will improve your baking, and increase your confidence when making substitutions. I hope that will inspire you to try new recipes.

The three most commonly used binders in gluten free recipes are xanthan gum, guar gum and psyllium husk. You don’t need to understand the science of these ingredients to use them but a little bit of knowledge will help you when making decisions in the kitchen and lead to the excellent results you want.

Do I Always Need To Use a Binder in Gluten Free Baking

No. At the end of this post I've included 'when not to use a binder' as well as some of the recipes I make that don't need a binder.

Although binders do play an important role in baking some people find they cannot tolerate gums. Another reminder that you need to know about all the ingredients you are eating to be symptom free as much as possible.

What is Gluten and What Does It Do

Gluten is a protein naturally found in wheat, barley and rye. The protein acts like a binder holding things together and adding a stretchiness to dough.

The main protein strands in wheat flour, glutenin and gliadin, wrap themselves around starch granules. When water is added these strands unwind and connect to form a network called gluten. This network can trap air to make light, airy baked goods and has a stretchy quality allowing dough to be shaped into anything and even tossed in the air to whimsically stretch pizza dough.

this gluten free recipe

In gluten free baking we need lots of help to create a similar network. The protein in different flours helps but many combinations of flour and starch cannot create a structure like wheat flour does. That is why we use binders.

What Are Binders For Gluten Free Baking

The three most common binders are xanthan gum, guar gum and psyllium husk powder. Each one works in a slightly different way to help create the structure we need to hold baked goods together.

If you're looking to add an excellent resource to your kitchen I recommend any of these books. They've got a lifetime of learning about cooking gluten free.

• The How Can It Be Gluten Free Cookbook
• Volume 2 The How Can It Be Gluten Free Cookbook
• In 2020 they published this book that includes 75 dairy free recipes, How Can It Be Gluten Free Collection; 350 Groundbreaking Recipes For All Your Favourites.

Xanthan Gum

Properties

• Xanthan gum is commercially used as a thickener and stabilizer in ingredients like toothpaste and salad dressing.
• Used to create structure and extend the freshness of gluten free baking.
• It has a shelf life and is best stored in the fridge or freezer. I keep a small spice bottle of xanthan gum in the cupboard with my baking supplies and store the bag in the freezer.
• Xanthan gum may seem expensive but it is used in small amounts and will last a long time.

Cons

• Not everyone can tolerate xanthan gum and some people have a happier tummy when they bake completely 'gum free'.
• Some people notice a metallic taste in baking with xanthan gum. I don't taste that so I use it in many of my recipes.

Best Uses

• All gluten free baked goods.
• Guar gum is a reasonable substitute if needed.

Guar Gum

Properties

• Made from guar seeds, this powder is high in fibre and is used as a laxative.
• Like xanthan gum it adds structure to baked goods.
• Imparts a slightly starchy texture to baked goods.
• According to America’s Test Kitchen cookbook, How Can It Be Gluten Free, "guar gum does not perform as well as xanthan gum". They do more extensive testing than any home cook could ever do so I’m happy to follow their recommendation. I learned this early in my gluten free baking so I have never tried guar gum.

Best Uses

• All gluten free baked goods.

Psyllium Husks and Psyllium Husk Powder

Properties

• Psyllium is a major component in laxatives. It has a high viscosity so is able to bind water more effectively than xanthan gum.
• It is sold as psyllium husks or psyllium husk powder. The husks appear like tiny flakes and are preferred for gluten free baking.
• Psyllium creates a sturdy network with the proteins in gluten free flours and adds a wheat flavour to baking that works well in yeast breads.
• The wheat flavour in not desirable in baked goods like muffins and cookies.
• A larger amount is required (compared to a tiny amount of xanthan gum) and for this reason it is more suited to use in yeast breads.

Best Uses

• Yeast breads and pizza dough.
• My biscuit style Cinnamon Rolls which is the basic recipe I vary to make Cheese Biscuits, a Biscuit Pizza and even Strawberry Shortcake.

Watch How To Use Binders on YouTube

Where To Buy Binders (Gums)

• Xanthan gum, guar gum and psyllium husk powder can all be found at stores that sell gluten free flour. Health food stores typically have more options.
• Both Bob's Red Mill and Judee's sell xanthan gum and guar gum online.
• Healthworks and Viva Naturals sell psyllium husk powder online.
• Bags of psyllium husk powder are typically quite large. If that is why you've avoided buying it find someone local to share the amount with. If you're in Calgary where I live, each month when I sell cookie dough I package up small amounts of ingredients for people who want to try it without the big purchase. You can find more details about that on the CLASS CALENDAR.

How To Add Binders in Gluten Free Baking

Adding the exact amount of xanthan gum needed to each recipe will yield the best results. For this reason a gluten free flour blend, homemade or store bought, is best without a binder.

More importantly, read the ingredient list on the flour blend you are using so you know if there is a binder in it. To much binder can make baked good gummy.

If your blend doesn't have a binder a good rule of thumb is to add ¼ teaspoon of xanthan gum for every 1 cup of gluten free flour. This changes depending on the type of recipe you're making so it's simply a guide.

Recipes Using Xanthan Gum

Although I have tried several muffin recipes without a binder, I like the results better when I use xanthan gum. For that reason the majority of my baking includes it. Psyllium husk powder in less of them but it was a worthwhile addition to my pantry.

As you bake more and experiment with yeast recipes you'll want to use psyllium husk powder.

Here are 30+ recipes that have a binder in them.

Pancakes, Waffles and Muffins

• Yogurt Pancakes, Pancake Bake and Pigs In A Blanket
• Waffles
• All my muffins: Gluten Free Muffins: A Recipe Roundup
• Buttermilk Biscuits made with individual flours/starches

Quick Breads, Cakes and Desserts

• Angel Food Cake, Australian Lamingtons and Chocolate Cupcakes
• Pumpkin Date Cake and Rhubarb Coffee Cake
• Cranberry Orange Scones

Pastry

• Flaky Pastry, the recipe I use to make Pumpkin Pie, Cherry Hand Pies, Lemon Meringue Pie, Banana Cream Pie and any pie you can think of. (Savoury ones below.)
• Glazed Fresh Fruit Pizza with a cookie dough type base.
• Tart Pastry 2.0 and my original version, Tart Crust 1.0

 Cookies

• A Roundup of Gluten Free Cookies including:
• Sugar Cookies
• Gingerbread Cookies
• Iced Pumpkin Spice Cookies
• Pumpkin Chocolate Chip Cookies
• Thumbprint Cookies and more.

Savoury Foods

• The same Flaky Pastry from above to make savoury recipes like quiche, Turkey Pot Pie and the French Canadian meat pie called Tourtiere.
• Yorkshire pudding
• Soft Dinner Rolls
• Chinese Onion Bread
• Vegan Bagels

Recipes Using Psyllium Husks

• Variations on one recipe made with my EGFG flour blend: Cheese Biscuits, Cinnamon Rolls and Strawberry Shortcake
• Pizza Dough (thin crust)

When Not To Use a Binder in Gluten Free Cooking

Gluten free bakers need to keep experimenting with everything they make. Some muffins and even cake recipes will work without a binder. Even though most of my recipes use a binder I do not use one in these recipes.

• Mug cakes
• Crepes and a crepe cake
• Savoury buckwheat crepes
• Baking with quinoa flour; Chocolate Chip Cookie Pizza and Peanut Butter Cookies with Quinoa Flour

When NOT to use Binders in gluten free cooking

There are the two things gluten free cooks need to know about binders.

1. You do not need a binder to make crispy breading or light, airy batter. My batter recipe uses brown rice flour, cornstarch and club soda to achieve the lightness I want. I use this batter to make Chinese Chicken Balls, Battered Fish for fish & chips or Fish Tacos. Try it to make tempura too but skip the second dipping step.
2. Gluten free flour blends do not give the best results for breading or batter. The high starch content of most flour blends creates a tough batter. My breading recipes vary so look at these recipes to see some options: Breaded Pork Chops and Breaded Chicken (same recipe made with cornstarch and gluten free cornflakes), Baked Sesame Chicken and calamari.

Happy baking and cooking!

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